Source: http://www.asahi.com/ajw/articles/AJ201906050010.html
Editor’s note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people make simple, tasty “gohan” (meals).
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The three-part series starting this week focuses on frying. The first recipe is for sea bream pan-fried with salt.
Although cooking the entire fish is daunting, fillets present less of a challenge. Instead of using the grill, use a frying pan to cook the fish and serve it piping hot.
Specially processed aluminum foil will be your ally in this endeavor. Since it prevents the ingredients from sticking to the pan, the fish is less likely to break apart when turned.
For cooked fillets to have crispy skin and a fluffy finish, pat the flesh dry with a paper towel beforehand to get rid of excess water. If wet, it takes time for the surface temperature to rise and this prevents the fish from becoming nicely browned and crisp.
Start cooking by placing the skin side of the fish on the pan, as it will be served face up on the plate.
The dish takes less than 10 minutes, including prep time. The amount of salt determines how this simple dish turns out. Salt weighing 1 percent of the fish will bring out a full-bodied saltiness that highlights the simple flavor of the fish.
Aluminum foil that stops food from sticking and does not require a drop of oil is sold at supermarkets and 100-yen shops. Look for “foil for frying pan” or “non-stick aluminum foil.”
According to manufacturer Asahi Kasei Home Products Corp., the upper temperature limit of the special foil is 300 degrees, which is higher than baking paper, making it suitable for pan-frying. The ingredients do not stick since one side is treated with silicon resin. Check which side should face up in the pan.
The foil is useful when cooking chicken with skin or other meat that tends to stick, such as those that are pre-seasoned or preserved in miso. When making scrambled eggs, mix gently so as not to rip the foil. Washing up will be easier since the frying pan will remain clean.
BASIC COOKING METHOD
(Supervised by Akiko Watanabe in the cooking aspect and Midori Kasai in the cookery science aspect)
* Ingredients and cooking utensils (Serves two)
2 slices (about 90 grams each) sea bream (tai), 1/3 tsp salt, kitchen knife and cooking board, paper towel, flat container, frying pan, aluminum foil (non-stick type)
1. Although judging the freshness of the fillets is not always easy, fresh ones have a nice color, are shiny and springy. Choose ones that haven't dripped in the package.
2. Make incisions on the skin of the fillet’s thick part so that it cooks better. Place skin-side up, pinch fish, place knife on skin and cut by pushing from your side to the back (PHOTO A). The depth of incisions should be about one-third of the entire thickness.
3. Place fillets on paper towel and pat dry (PHOTO B). Spread half of the salt on a flat container and place the fillets on them. Sprinkle remaining salt. Salt will settle in 2 to 3 minutes.
4. Place frying pan on medium heat. When a hand held above pan feels hot, lay aluminum foil, place fillets skin-side down and turn down heat to a little lower than medium. Pan should be hot so the fillets sizzle when they go in. Normally, there is no need to use the lid for the pan unless the fillets are thick.
5. As the fish is being cooked, the edges start to turn white. After 3 to 4 minutes, lift one end to check the skin (PHOTO C). If browned, turn and cook for 3 to 4 minutes over low heat. Fillet is done if springy when pressed with chopsticks.
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Akiko Watanabe is a cooking expert specializing in Japanese cuisine.
Midori Kasai is a professor at Ochanomizu University and chairperson of the Japan Society of Cookery Science.
ARRANGED VERSION
<Mackerel pan-fried with salt>
Prior to cooking fatty fish with a distinct smell like mackerel, sprinkle salt and pat dry. After making incisions on 2 fillets (about 90 grams each), sprinkle half of the 1/3 tsp salt to cover the fillets and leave for 10 minutes or so. Pat dry, sprinkle remaining salt on surface immediately before placing the fillets in heated frying pan skin-side down. Grate about 4 cm of daikon radish, lightly drain and add 1 tsp vinegar. Serve with mackerel.
COOKERY SCIENCE
Salt is sprinkled not only to season the fish but also to turn the surface firm through the salt’s dehydrating action and to remove the fishy smell that has melted into water. The water on the surface should be wiped thoroughly before cooking. Since it is harder for salt to permeate fatty fish with less water content like mackerel, leave longer after sprinkling salt.
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From The Asahi Shimbun’s Gohan Lab column